The New Year began not only with working on new perfumes (read more here), but also with looking for new suppliers of ingredients for our perfumes – particulary essential oils and absolutes. Our existing supplier in Italy extended the Christmas break until March, which forced us to look for new suppliers in Italy and France. This unexpected situation turned out to be a great opportunity to establish new business contacts in Grasse, the capital of the world’s perfumery, and to meet new producers of extracts from Neroli, Jasmine, Rose, Oakmoss and Tonka.
The biggest challenge turned out to be making sure that the new supplier offers extracts of the same quality and with the same olfactory profile. Therefore, each new contact started with ordering a set of samples. This allowed us to evaluate a given batch before purchasing larger quantities. Since the commercial offer of each company is different, we finally managed to establish cooperation with not one but three new companies, from which the ordered extracts are already on their way to Warsaw.
The set of samples visible in the photo is extremely close to us: sandalwood essential oil, we have known from the very beginning of creating the brand. It is characterized by a warm, sensual woody fragrance. Very smooth and creamy. When it has not yet been used in our perfumes (e.g Gloria, Sérail and Metarosa), I carried sandalwood oil dissolved in oil to apply on the skin.
Violet Leaf Absolute is one of the first extracts to be used in JAN BARBA perfumes. This ingredient is in our first composition Chypre. It gives it a characteristic roughness, which was traditionally achieved in this type of perfumes by using an oak moss absolute. Violet Leaf offers a warmer color, a more resinous background that better complements the composition and gives it a unique character.
Tonka bean absolute first appeared in Sérail. The high content of natural coumarin (a constituent substance found in the absolute) caused it to reappear in Fougère. The fougère accord, which historically (see Fougère Royal) consisted of lavender and coumarin, in JAN BARBA’s composition gained depth and complexity thanks to the use of the absolute.
Perfumes built on ingredients of natural origin are particularly susceptible to harvest and weather conditions. Their scent varies depending on the region of the world they come from. They require special attention and thorough examination before using them in the finished product. Fortunately, samples allow you to dispel any doubts.